Sunday, March 30, 2014

More progress and a few details

I feel like I made some great progress this weekend. Between kid's events and work it's been hard to get solid blocks of time to dedicate to the project. A little trim here, a little tuck there, but not any real time. Well, this weekend, there was nothing on the schedule. No games, no dances, no places to be. The weather started off chilly and ended up in the 50's on Sunday. I opened the garage doors, let the sun and fresh air in, and got down to work. Several things got accomplished:

I got the seat fronts measured, cut and installed. I made the rudder cheek assembly.

Cut the holes for inspection ports, and laminate a reinforcing ring to the inside face

Picture of the finished inspection port with reinforcing doubler ring.

Seat fronts installed and setting up. Trickiest part here is getting the angle right on the aft side so that the ransom angles back correctly.

Made the seat faces slightly oversized so I can plane them down once the seat stringer is in place. In this picture, the bulkhead frames are clamped on for dry fit/visual check.


Making the rudder cheeks. I had a nice piece of white oak, so I sized the plank, planed it to thickness and made the first cheek. I used this as a pattern for the 2nd cheek, and then used the sizing of that and dimensions from the plans to do the spacer blocks.

Simple geometry drawn on the plank

Rudder cheek, starboard side. Pivot point epoxy filled to be drilled out to size later. Stainless screws countersunk and covered over with thickened epoxy.

Front view of the cheek assembly. I'm quite proud of how this turned out.  The cuts and holes are quite precise and clean, and the whole thing feels solid and like something that will last.

I used a 3/16" rounding plane to knock the edges off the corners of the piece. It's one of my favorite tools. It cuts true and smooth, and leaves the piece with a wonderful hand-feel. If you click the image and look closely at the edges, you'll see what I mean.


Here are a few pictures from some of the little details that I've been working on evenings after I get home from work. Little stuff for sure, but stuff that's fun and will add to the overall nice finish of the boat once it's done.
This is the temporary king plank. I say temporary because I'm not sure I want it made from pine, which is what this plank is. Maybe it should be oak? 
I like this detail on the centerboard case. I shaped a piece of white oak to the proper dimensions, and then on the underside, I made 3/4 cuts through the plank every inch or so. The idea was to make the board flexible below so that it could bend to the curve of the sides of the case. It was then secured with epoxy and screws. Eventually, I'll make a covering board from laminated teak. 

This is the floor brace for Bulkhead 5. I used my Bosch jigsaw to cut the profile of the base moulding, and my 3/16 roundover plane to soften the top edges of the brace. 

Precision fitting the port seat face to where it meets the transom.  Nice fit. Right angle. 

Making the inspection ports on Bulkhead 3. These will be sealed with rubber gasket/o-rings and then mounted with  thumb screws. I don't anticipate having to take these off every day...


Now that the seat faces are in place, I'll begin gluing up each of the bulkheads in preparation for putting the stringers on. I'm quite nervous about this. As they say, this is where the rubber meets the road. I'll get to see just how far off my measurements were and how bad my cuts were! Hopefully, there won't be too much in the way of re-fitting.  

6 comments:

  1. I would recommend you take some time and make sure you can reach all the corners of the side seat bays before you glue everything into place. It is much harder to cut access holes once parts are installed.

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    1. Hi Wayne, thanks for the comments. I'm not sure what you mean though? Which access holes are you referring to? I cut out the two inspection ports and fitted doublers...and I've cut the drainage holes on the bulkheads. But not sure which other holes I may need?? I HAVE been wondering about a drain hole in the transom, as well as how the rudder downhaul is going to work...but that's about it. Would appreciate knowing more about what you have in mind. JF

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    2. John:

      The plans don't show any additional access points. Just be aware that with only that access point, there will be many corners of the side seat compartments you will never be able to reach.

      With your access point between bulkheads 7 and 8, you might be able to reach the corners by the transom, and you can probably reach most of the bay between bulkheads 6 and 7, but there is no way your arm will reach the bay between bulkheads 5 and 6. Also remember, to fully reach into those access hatches involves lying on your back in the footwell. You might want to look at cutting an access point into the front of bulkhead 5 on each side. That should give you full access. That nice open expanse gets pretty crowded once you install the planking and seat tops.

      The only reason I know this is because I had to cut ports into the seat tops by the transom and the front of bulkhead 5 AFTER installing the seat tops. Trust me, you don't want to try cutting with everything else in your way.

      Looking GOOD so far!

      Wayne

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    3. Regarding the rudder downhaul, I didn't do things quite to plan. I ran a single piece of line through the hole in the "ear" at the top aft corner of the rudder, with a stopper knot on each side. I then put a cheek block on each side aligned with the tiller. On one side, the line runs directly up to the cheek block from the hole, then forward along the tiller (the uphaul). On the other side, there is a second cheek block mounted at the very bottom of the rudder head. The line runs from the hole straight forward to the lower cheek block, up to the upper cheek block, then forward along the tiller (the downhaul). I have a horn cleat on the uphaul side of the tiller near where it goes under the rear coaming and an autorelease clamcleat on the downhaul side. It takes a bit of a tug to start the rudder down, but the rudder has only kicked up when it touched bottom.

      Your build so far is looking beautiful. She should be quite a sight on the water!

      If you have any questions or want pictures, feel free to contact me at wayne[dot]oren[dot]johnson[at]gmail[dot]com

      Wayne

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  2. FYI: your build looks MUCH cleaner than mine. Great job!

    Wayne

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  3. That's looking really good. I feel you're working just a few months ahead of me. Every time I google how to do the next step, I find your blog again :)

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